Yes, concrete can be poured over existing tiles — but only if the surface is stable, properly prepared, and bonded correctly. In some cases, it can save time and mess during renovations, especially on interior floors. That said, skipping steps or pouring over the wrong kind of tile base can lead to poor adhesion, cracking, and early failure. This guide explains when it’s possible, how to do it right, and when removal is the smarter choice.
Pouring concrete over tile works if the tile surface is firmly bonded, not cracked, and well-cleaned. Glazed tiles may need mechanical abrasion for proper adhesion.
In cases where tiles are loose, cracked, or water-damaged, removal is the safer long-term choice. Skipping this step can cause the new concrete layer to fail.
Always consult with a concrete specialist before pouring over tiles. A site assessment ensures the base is suitable and avoids costly redos down the line.
Walk the entire tiled area and listen for hollow sounds — this means tiles are not bonded and should be removed. Look for any cracks, loose sections, or water ingress. The concrete can only go down if the base is stable and sound throughout. Grout lines and gaps are fine as long as the tiles themselves are solid.
Remove any dirt, grease, wax, or sealants from the tiles using an alkaline cleaner. Next, abrade or grind the surface with a concrete grinder or heavy-duty sander. This allows the bonding agent and concrete to key into the tile properly. A smooth or glossy tile surface will cause delamination.
Use a concrete bonding agent designed for tile or non-porous substrates. Apply it evenly with a brush or roller. Some contractors also add a thin cementitious slurry coat over the primer for added grip. Let it set as per manufacturer’s instructions before moving on.
Pour a thin concrete layer or screed — usually 25–50mm — and reinforce it with mesh or fibres depending on thickness. Use levelling tools or a straightedge to get a consistent surface. Avoid overworking the mix and allow it to settle naturally. Make sure there’s no pooling or weak edges near walls or thresholds.
Allow at least 7–14 days curing time depending on overlay thickness. Cover the surface with plastic sheeting or use a curing agent to prevent moisture loss. Avoid foot traffic or heavy loads during this time. After curing, the surface can be polished, sealed, or finished depending on the desired result.
| Base Type | Stability | Risk of Bond Failure | Best Use |
|---|---|---|---|
| Existing Tiles | Medium (if sound) | Higher – needs primer & prep | Indoor refurb, tight timelines |
| Stripped Concrete Base | High | Low – direct bond | New builds, long-term durability |
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