Before you pour anything, give the existing asphalt a proper inspection. Look for cracks, dips, potholes, or any areas that feel soft underfoot. If the asphalt shifts when walked on or shows signs of sinking, it's not a reliable base and could lead to failure of the new concrete slab. You’re looking for a surface that’s firm, level, and structurally sound. Any weak spots should be cut out and patched properly — or better yet, removed and replaced with a compacted sub-base. The success of concrete over asphalt starts with stability, so don’t skip this step.
Once you’ve confirmed the asphalt is stable, it’s time to clean it thoroughly. Use a pressure washer to remove all dirt, dust, oil stains, moss, or debris from the surface. Any contaminants left behind can weaken the bond between the concrete and the asphalt. For oil spots or other residues, a degreasing agent or concrete-safe cleaner might be needed. Let the surface dry completely before moving on to the next stage. A clean, dry base is essential if you're using bonding agents or primers — they won’t stick to grime or moisture. Treat this step like prepping a wall before painting: the better the clean, the better the finish.
Concrete doesn’t naturally bond well to asphalt, so this step is critical. Depending on your approach, you’ll either apply a bonding agent designed for concrete-over-asphalt applications or use a separator layer like a slip membrane. Bonding agents help the concrete grip the asphalt, improving adhesion and reducing the risk of the slab shifting later. In some installs, especially where movement is a concern, contractors use a polyethylene sheet or a geotextile separator to decouple the two layers. Whichever method you choose, make sure it’s applied according to manufacturer instructions and allowed to cure or settle as needed before pouring.
Reinforcement is especially important when you’re pouring concrete over a non-traditional base like asphalt. A layer of steel mesh or rebar helps distribute loads evenly and prevents cracking from slight shifts or temperature changes. Lay the mesh on small concrete spacers (not directly on the base) so it sits within the bottom third of the slab. For higher strength or larger pours, rebar in a grid layout may be better. Fibre-reinforced concrete is another option for light-duty slabs. Reinforcement isn’t optional here — it’s what gives your concrete structural integrity and a fighting chance against movement or subsidence in the base layer.
With your prep complete, you can now pour the concrete. Aim for a slab thickness of at least 100mm (4 inches) for paths or patios, and 125–150mm for driveways. Use standard concreting techniques — pour evenly, tamp or vibrate to remove air pockets, and screed the surface flat. Once levelled, apply a float finish, broom texture, or trowelled surface depending on the project. Don’t forget to edge the sides and cut in control joints to prevent cracking. Finally, cure the slab properly by keeping it damp and covered for at least 7 days. A solid pour is the payoff for all your prep — take your time and do it right.