How to Lay a Damp Proof Membrane (DPM) Under a Concrete Slab

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The Barrier Between You and Rising Damp

A damp proof membrane (DPM) prevents moisture from rising through the concrete and ruining insulation, flooring, or finishes above. It’s a vital step in almost every concrete floor build-up — from new builds to extensions, sheds, and garages. But it’s often installed wrong: loose edges, ripped corners, or poor overlaps can make it pointless. This guide walks through the correct way to lay a DPM under concrete — clean, tight, and ready for insulation or pour.

What You’ll Need:

  • 1200 gauge (300 micron) polythene membrane or equivalent
  • DPM jointing tape (double-sided butyl or single-sided lap tape)
  • Protective underlay (optional, if no sand blinding used)
  • Stanley knife, scissors, and kneepads
  • Weights or boards to hold it flat while working

✔ Step-by-Step: How to Lay a Damp Proof Membrane Under Concrete

  1. 1

    Make Sure the Sub-Base Is Clean and Smooth

    Before rolling out your DPM, ensure the hardcore (or sand blinding layer) is compacted and flat. Remove sharp stones, debris, or high spots that could puncture the membrane. If no sand blinding has been used, consider laying a protective geotextile fleece or thin polythene sheet underneath. This isn’t just about neatness — it’s essential to protect the DPM from damage and ensure it sits flush against the ground without bridging or bunching.

  2. 2

    Unroll and Cut the Membrane to Fit

    Roll out your DPM across the floor area, cutting it to size with a knife or scissors. Overlap each sheet by at least 150mm where they join, and leave extra length at the perimeter to turn up against walls or shuttering. Work carefully — avoid dragging the membrane or walking on it too much. If it’s windy, use weights or temporary boards to keep it in place while you position each sheet. Keep the surface clean as you go — debris under the DPM can cause tears or bridging when the slab is poured.

  3. 3

    Tape the Joints and Overlaps Securely

    Where membranes overlap, tape them with high-quality jointing tape. You can use either single-sided lap tape on the top edge or double-sided butyl tape between layers. Press firmly and smooth out air bubbles. It’s essential that the join is watertight — don’t rely on weight alone to keep sheets together. Avoid using duct tape or standard packaging tape — it won’t hold long-term. If you’re working around pipework or ducts, cut tight around them and seal with tape or proprietary collars.

  4. 4

    Turn the Membrane Up the Edges

    DPMs should always return vertically up the perimeter — whether against concrete formwork, insulation boards, or masonry. Turn the sheet up at least 100mm above finished slab level. If you’re working inside existing walls, tape the membrane to the inner face using butyl tape or grip adhesive. This “dished” approach creates a continuous waterproof envelope, preventing moisture tracking up wall bases or escaping through slab edges. Don’t trim it flush until the concrete is poured and finished.

  5. 5

    Seal Around Services and Penetrations

    If any pipes, ducts, or rebar stubs pass through the slab, the DPM must be sealed tight around them. Cut a neat hole just large enough, slide it over the service, and tape around the entire edge using flexible DPM tape or specialist pipe collars. This is a weak point in many builds — even small gaps can let moisture through. Some systems use proprietary boots or grommets for drainage or electrical runs. Whatever method you use, make sure it’s sealed fully and can’t be disturbed during the pour.

  6. 6

    Protect the DPM Before Pouring

    Once the membrane is in place and taped, avoid unnecessary foot traffic. Lay insulation boards or temporary walking boards if needed to spread weight. Sharp tools, dropped mesh, or loose rebar can easily puncture the DPM, especially if the ground beneath isn’t uniform. If you’re not pouring straight away, cover the membrane or tape boards along key walkways. Check for holes, tears or moved joints before continuing — a quick patch now avoids major moisture issues later.

  7. 7

    Inspect and Sign Off Before Pour

    Before any concrete is poured, do a full walk-around. Are all joints taped? Are upturns secured and taped to walls or shuttering? Are penetrations sealed? Any visible rips or tears must be patched with a membrane offcut and re-taped. Once concrete’s in, it’s too late to fix anything. If you're working to spec, take photos or invite the client or building inspector to check the prep before proceeding. From here, your slab is ready to build on — dry, protected, and built to last.

What thickness should a DPM be?
Most standard slabs use a 1200 gauge (300 micron) polythene sheet. For more demanding environments or with aggressive ground conditions, heavier membranes or specialist gas-resistant barriers may be needed.
Does the DPM go above or below insulation?
It depends on the build-up. Most floor builds place the DPM below the insulation — directly on the hardcore or sand blinding — to stop moisture getting into the insulation. But some designs use it above for belt-and-braces protection. Always follow spec.
Can I pour concrete straight onto a DPM?
Yes — concrete is poured directly over the DPM in most slab constructions. Just make sure it’s clean, flat, and puncture-free. Rebar or mesh should be laid on spacers above the membrane, not resting on it.

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