Once you’ve finished your metal grinding stages and exposed the right surface, the next step is honing — typically using 100 and 200 grit diamond pads. Honing removes the visible scratch pattern left by metal bonds and preps the floor for densifier and higher-grit resins. Done properly, it gives you clarity, smoothness, and polish depth. This guide walks you through exactly how to hone concrete slabs with 100 and 200 grit resin or hybrid pads, with tips for surface inspection, pass technique, and avoiding hazing.
Before honing, inspect the floor under low-angle lighting. You’re looking for deep grooves, swirl marks, or uneven cuts from the last metal stage. If they’re still visible after vacuuming, you need to re-run your final metal grit — don’t move into resins until the floor is uniform. The honing stage doesn’t cut deep — it refines. Mistakes from earlier stages will only get locked in.
If the slab is hard or has a dense top, start with 100 grit resin pads. On softer, porous, or coarse surfaces, use hybrid transition pads to ease into honing. Hybrids have more cutting power and reduce pad loading. For 200 grit, use standard resins unless you’re working on very soft concrete. Always match pad size and pressure to machine specs — smaller pads wear faster and cut hotter.
Honing can be done wet or dry. Wet honing reduces heat, improves clarity, and controls dust — it’s especially useful for darker mixes or decorative slabs. Dry honing is faster and often preferred on large commercial jobs, but requires excellent vacuum systems to prevent loading. Use just enough water to float the pad if honing wet, and avoid standing slurry — it leaves hazy residue if not removed immediately.
Run a full set of north-to-south passes, then east-to-west — overlapping each by 30–40%. Use moderate machine speed and even head pressure. Don’t rush: the goal is refinement, not removal. You should see the scratch pattern fade into a uniform matte finish, free from deep lines or glazing. Always vacuum between direction changes to spot uneven zones.
Use a 100 or 200 grit resin or hybrid hand pad to match your machine passes at edges, walls, and columns. This is critical — edge mismatches will show under light reflection after polishing. Feather the hand work into the main pass area by at least 150mm. Use light pressure and circular movement to avoid gouging or halo effects.
Whether working wet or dry, you must remove all residue between grit stages. Slurry left to dry can harden and embed in surface pores, leading to hazing. Use a wet vac and clean water for wet jobs, or a HEPA vacuum and microfiber mop for dry passes. Don’t drag slurry or dust across zones — it contaminates your finish.
After 200 grit honing, inspect the floor using raking light or overhead reflection. You want a smooth, consistent surface with a very slight sheen — not gloss, but clarity. Look for missed passes, pad swirl, or unrefined edges. If you see shadows or texture variation, re-run the previous grit. Honing is the base for densifying and final polishing — don’t gloss over flaws now.
Once honing is complete, apply a lithium or sodium densifier. This penetrates best at 100–200 grit, when the pores are still open but surface is smooth. Spread evenly with a microfiber pad or pump sprayer and let it soak in. Any polish work after this point builds on that hardened base — so timing it right makes all the difference.
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