Adding colour to a concrete slab completely transforms the end result — from plain grey to sleek charcoal, warm terracotta, or modern white. But choosing the right method and executing it properly is essential if you want the colour to be even, durable, and true to spec. This guide explains how to add colour to concrete using two proven techniques: integral colouring and surface colouring (including dry shake, dye, and stain).
Your first step is choosing the right approach. Integral colour is best for large pours, structural slabs, or any job where consistent colour throughout the depth of the concrete is needed. It’s mixed in during batching and can’t fade or wear away. Surface-applied colour (like dry shake or dye) gives stronger colour intensity and is ideal for decorative surfaces, polished floors, or where integral colour wasn’t used during pour. Surface methods can be used on both fresh and cured slabs.
If using integral colouring, order your mix with pigment added at the batching plant. This ensures even dispersion and consistent colour. Choose UV-stable, oxide-based pigments from a reputable supplier. Keep note of dosage per cubic metre — typically 2% to 5% of cement weight. Colour variation can happen from batch to batch, so order the entire job’s concrete at once where possible. Avoid adding pigment on-site unless you have mixing equipment — hand-mixing leads to streaks and inconsistency.
Once delivered, place, screed, and float the slab using normal methods. The colour is built into the mix, so finishing doesn’t require anything special — just consistent practice to avoid surface variation. Avoid adding water on-site, as this dilutes pigment and changes final appearance. If using power floats or trowels, ensure clean blades to avoid staining or burn marks that alter colour tone.
Surface colour can be applied in several ways:
Each method has its own prep, finish, and sealing requirements. Dry shake gives colour and surface hardness in one, but only works on fresh slabs. Dyes and stains require clean, fully cured concrete.
If you're working with a cured slab, surface preparation is critical. Strip off any sealer, coating, or laitance using a grinder or chemical stripper. The surface must be porous enough to accept the dye or stain. Use water drop tests — if water beads, it needs more prep. For dye, shot blasting or light grinding works best. For acid stain, keep the surface natural and avoid overly polished finishes, which reduce penetration.
Always test in a small area first. For dry shake, apply evenly over the slab just after floating — then trowel in multiple passes. For dye or stain, use low-pressure sprayers or microfiber mops. Work in one direction first, then cross-pass for even coverage. Keep a wet edge and avoid overlap lines. Environmental conditions matter — hot weather can flash-dry dyes, while cold weather slows penetration and bonding.
Acid stains need at least 4–6 hours to react fully with the concrete. After this, you'll need to neutralise the acid with an alkaline rinse (e.g. ammonia and water). Dyes and water-based stains generally dry within 1–2 hours. Do not walk or touch the surface while it sets. Protect the slab from rain or rapid drying during this period — both can blotch or distort the finish.
Always seal coloured concrete. Use a breathable acrylic, urethane, or lithium silicate sealer depending on finish and usage. Choose low sheen, satin, or gloss depending on the visual target. Sealing enhances colour depth, protects from UV fade, and helps with cleaning. Reapply sealer every 1–3 years for best results, especially outdoors. Never apply sealer until the slab is fully dry and cured.
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