Resurfacing a concrete floor, path, or driveway sounds simple — but skipping a proper surface inspection is the easiest way to waste time and materials. Not all slabs are ready to be overlaid. Some have deep cracks, movement, moisture issues, or surface delamination that will cause new layers to fail. This guide walks you through exactly how to inspect a concrete surface before resurfacing, so you know what repairs are needed and what’s safe to proceed with.
Begin with a slow, methodical walk across the slab. Look for cracks, spalling, scaling, heaving, or surface flaking. Note where damage is concentrated (corners, joints, edges) and how widespread it is. Use chalk or spray paint to mark areas that need deeper evaluation. Light cracking may be superficial, but wide, jagged, or offset cracks may signal movement or structural issues that must be resolved before resurfacing begins.
Use a metal tool or hammer to gently tap the surface in a grid pattern. A solid, dense slab will give off a sharp, tight sound. Hollow or delaminated areas will sound dull or hollow. These spots are at high risk of failure if coated or resurfaced — they need to be broken out and repaired before any new layer is added. Pay extra attention to corners, joints, or previously patched sections where delamination is more common.
Determine how hard and dense the surface is using a Mohs scratch test or a surface hardness tester. This helps identify areas that may polish or bond inconsistently. You should also assess the CSP (Concrete Surface Profile) — smoother slabs may need mechanical roughening before resurfacing. If the surface is powdery or dusty, it likely has weak laitance that will need grinding off for proper bonding. You’re aiming for a clean, roughened surface that can hold onto new material.
Excess moisture ruins most resurfacing jobs. Use a calcium chloride test or moisture meter to measure MVER (moisture vapor emission rate). Even slabs that appear dry can have high internal moisture moving toward the surface. If MVER is over 3–5 lbs/1000 sq ft/24 hrs (depending on product used), it will compromise bonding, especially for epoxy, polish, or microcement. In high-moisture areas, vapor barriers or breathable overlays may be needed instead.
Residues like oil, paint, glue, adhesives, and curing compounds interfere with overlay bonding. Check for dark stains, sticky zones, or glossy patches that indicate contamination. A simple water drop test (watch if water beads or soaks in) helps spot sealer or oil presence. Contaminated areas must be degreased, scarified, or ground clean before resurfacing. Any shortcut here almost always leads to blistering, bubbling, or peeling overlays later on.
Identify all expansion joints, control joints, and cracks that show signs of movement. Resurfacing over these without proper joint honoring can lead to telegraphing or tearing of the overlay. If structural cracks are active (edges don’t align, or new cracks are forming), you may need structural repair before cosmetic resurfacing is safe. Use a crack gauge or visual monitoring over time if needed to confirm whether movement is ongoing or stable.
Based on your inspection, create a prep plan: which areas need grinding, patching, or moisture protection? Which sections are sound enough for overlay? A proper inspection isn’t just about identifying problems — it’s about mapping the prep process so no surprises happen once work begins. Include surface profile goals, equipment needed, and repair methods for all flagged defects. The better the inspection, the smoother the resurfacing.
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