Pouring a concrete slab isn’t just about tipping it in and hoping for the best. It takes timing, coordination, the right tools, and a solid plan. Done right, you get a level, long-lasting surface ready for anything. Done wrong, and you’re grinding, cracking, or ripping it out. This guide walks through how to pour concrete for a slab — step-by-step — with real jobsite methods that work.
A smooth pour depends on coordination. You’ll need at least 2–3 people: one on the chute or pump hose, one raking and levelling, and one managing the screed and finishing. Gather tools ahead of time: rakes, shovels, straightedges, bull float, tampers, edging trowel, gloves, boots, and a water source for cleanup. Once the truck’s here, there’s no time to hunt for a spade.
Confirm that your formwork or screed rails are set to the correct slab height. Use a laser level or string and measure down to your DPM, mesh or insulation. If you’re using screed pegs or rails, make sure they’re firmly fixed and match the finish height across the entire area. Once the concrete goes in, fixing levels is nearly impossible — this is your last check.
Begin pouring from the furthest point and work your way back to the truck or pump access. If barrow mixing, work in small, manageable zones. With ready-mix or boom pump, pour steadily in lifts and avoid flooding too large an area. Use the chute or hose to loosely distribute the concrete, aiming to keep depth slightly above finished height for levelling. Avoid piling too much in one spot — it’ll settle unevenly or disturb mesh.
Use a concrete rake or shovel to spread and pull the mix into corners, around formwork, and over rebar or mesh. Work quickly, but methodically. Watch for trapped air, uneven buildup, or voids under pipes or around edges. If needed, use a vibrator or tamp to help concrete settle around reinforcement. Don't overwork it yet — just get it in place and close to level.
Once a section is poured and roughly spread, it’s time to screed. Use a long straightedge (timber or aluminium) and work it back and forth in a sawing motion across the formwork or screed rails. One person pulls, one watches and fills low spots. Don’t rush this — it sets the base for your finish. If your slab is sloped for drainage, match the fall direction and depth as you go.
After screeding, run a bull float (or darby) over the surface to smooth it and embed any aggregate just below the surface. This helps remove small ridges and fills minor voids. Work perpendicular to your screed direction. Don’t over-float too early or you’ll bring excess water to the surface. Timing here is key — bull float as soon as bleed water starts showing, not before.
Use a steel or magnesium float to clean up around edges, corners, and pipework. Run an edging tool along the perimeter to give a clean, rounded finish that resists chipping. If it’s a visible slab (patio, garage, internal floor), this finish matters. If you're power floating later, get the edges tight so you don’t have to overwork them with the machine.
The final finish depends on the slab’s purpose. For garages or power-floated floors, you’ll use a float pan or trowel machine after the concrete has firmed up. For patios or external slabs, you may broom-finish for slip resistance. Always wait until bleed water is gone — finishing too early traps moisture. Don’t walk on the slab until it supports your weight without indenting.
After finishing, the slab must be cured — this is what gives it strength. Cover it with plastic sheeting, curing blankets, or spray-on curing agent to retain moisture. Protect it from wind, sun, and rain for the first 24–48 hours. No heavy loads or traffic for at least 7 days. Concrete reaches full strength at 28 days — treat it well from the start and it’ll last for decades.
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