Any coating left on concrete — whether it’s paint, a penetrating sealer, curing compound, adhesive or epoxy — will interfere with new finishes. If you're planning to polish, dye, resurface, or even apply a new sealer, the slab must be stripped clean. This guide walks through the best methods for removing coatings from concrete, how to assess what’s on the surface, and which tools get the job done right.
Before you pick a removal method, figure out what you're dealing with. Apply a few drops of xylene or acetone in a small spot — if it softens, it’s likely an acrylic sealer. If nothing happens, you may be looking at epoxy, polyurethane, or a cured resin. Sticky residue might be adhesive or glue. Knowing what’s on the slab helps choose between grinding, chemical stripping, or shot blasting.
Mechanical removal includes grinding, scraping, and shot blasting. It’s effective for thicker coatings like epoxy, or when prepping for polishing. Chemical strippers are better for solvent-based sealers or paint, and are ideal when you need to avoid dust or damage. Some jobs may require a combination — like softening an adhesive with stripper before grinding the slab clean.
For hardened sealers, resin, or epoxy, use a heavy-duty floor grinder fitted with PCD (polycrystalline diamond) or metal bond tooling. These aggressive blades cut fast but may leave gouge marks, so work in even, overlapping passes. Use a vacuum attachment to control dust. Grinding also opens the surface for polishing, staining, or resurfacing, making it ideal for restoration projects.
For acrylic sealers, latex paint, or curing agents, a chemical stripper may be more efficient. Use solvent- or gel-based products that cling to the surface. Apply liberally with a brush or roller, let dwell for 15–45 minutes (depending on the coating), then scrape off the softened layer with a floor scraper. Always ventilate the area and wear PPE — these products can be harsh.
Carpet and tile adhesives can be stubborn. Use a stripper gel or apply heat (with a hot air gun or infrared heater) to soften the glue. Once softened, scrape with a razor scraper or swing-arm machine. Some residues may still need grinding to fully clean the surface. Always test a small area before doing large sections to see how the adhesive reacts.
Shot blasting propels steel shot at the slab to strip coatings and profile the surface at once. It’s best for large industrial floors with heavy coatings or where no water or chemicals can be used. This method leaves a clean, profiled surface ready for overlay or epoxy — but may be too aggressive for decorative or polished finishes unless followed by light grinding.
Once the coating is removed, clean the slab thoroughly. If you’ve used a chemical stripper, neutralise the surface using a water and mild detergent rinse (or follow manufacturer’s guidance). Any residue left behind can interfere with adhesion, stains, or sealers. Use a wet vacuum or mop system and allow the surface to dry completely before next steps.
After removal and cleaning, do a water test — sprinkle water across the slab. If it soaks in evenly, the surface is clean and ready for polishing, staining, or sealing. If it beads or soaks unevenly, there's still residue present. In that case, repeat light grinding or chemical treatment until the slab is fully porous and prepped.
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