Method | Best For | Strength Boost | Install |
---|---|---|---|
Steel mesh sheets (e.g. A142) | Garden slabs, bases, paths | ✅✅✅ | Moderate – needs cutting and spacing |
Fibre additives (polypropylene) | Small slabs, patios, shed bases | ✅✅ | Easy – just mix into concrete |
Plastic or composite rebar | Non-structural, eco-friendly builds | ✅✅ | Moderate – lighter, no rust issues |
Wire mesh rolls | Light footpaths, decorative slabs | ✅ | Easy – basic edge support |
Start by considering what your slab is being used for. For patios, shed bases, and paths, fibre additives or welded mesh sheets are usually enough. If you’re pouring a larger base or want extra strength without full rebar, A142 mesh or plastic composite rods are good options. For ultra-light jobs like garden edging or small stepping stones, even wire mesh rolls or fibre-only mixes will do the trick. It’s all about matching the reinforcement to the load and purpose. You don’t need rebar unless your slab is handling heavy vehicles, structural loads, or unusually thick pours.
If you're using steel mesh, lay it out over your compacted sub-base or DPM (damp-proof membrane). Use mesh chairs or small blocks to raise it about 40–50mm off the ground so it ends up in the top third of the slab. Make sure to overlap mesh sheets by at least 200mm and tie them securely. If you're using fibre additives instead, measure the correct amount according to the bag or mix ratio and keep it ready to mix in with your concrete. Don’t use both fibres and mesh without checking compatibility — too much reinforcement can cause mix imbalance.
For fibre reinforcement, mix the fibres into your concrete either during batching or on-site. Add them slowly and evenly to avoid clumping. Most mixes use around 600g–1kg of fibres per cubic metre of concrete, depending on the type. For mesh or plastic rods, the reinforcement should already be in position before pouring. Make sure concrete flows underneath and over the mesh evenly without disturbing its height. Avoid dragging tools or boots over mesh, as it can pull the reinforcement down. Pour steadily and fill the slab from one side to reduce cold joints or uneven distribution.
After pouring, use a screed board to level the surface across your formwork. Work back and forth evenly so the surface settles cleanly. Once level, use a float to smooth the surface and close the top. If using fibre additives, you might notice some stray fibres sticking out — don’t worry, these usually settle during finishing or can be cut down after curing. Avoid overworking the slab, especially on hot days. Let the concrete bleed (release surface water) before final finishing. The reinforcement should now be locked in place and evenly embedded throughout the slab.
Curing is just as important as the pour itself. Keep the slab moist and protected for at least 7 days to reduce cracking and allow the concrete to gain strength. Cover the surface with plastic sheeting, wet hessian, or apply a curing compound — especially in hot or windy weather. Fibre-reinforced slabs are more resistant to early cracking, but they still need proper curing to perform well. Avoid foot traffic for 24–48 hours and heavy loads for at least 7 days. Once fully cured, you’ll have a solid, reinforced slab — no rebar required.