Laying a concrete base isn’t just about mixing and pouring — it’s about precision, preparation, and the right tools for every stage of the job. Whether you’re building a slab for a garden room, shed, or driveway, using the correct equipment can mean the difference between a professional finish and a slab full of cracks, dips, or uneven levels. Below are the 10 essential tools you’ll need to lay a concrete base properly, from ground prep to final float. Don’t skip these — they’re the backbone of any solid, long-lasting concrete job.
Compaction is everything when it comes to concrete base prep. A plate compactor — often called a Wacker plate — ensures your sub-base (typically MOT Type 1) is firm, level, and properly compressed before any concrete goes down. Without this, your base may shift or settle over time, leading to cracks. Compactors come in petrol or electric options and can be hired affordably if you don’t want to buy. They’re especially important for slabs going on soft or disturbed ground. Make at least 2–3 passes in different directions to lock everything in tight. Never pour concrete on loose or “fluffy” hardcore — compacted sub-base is non-negotiable.
Unless you're using ready-mix, a concrete mixer is your best friend on-site. It allows you to blend cement, sharp sand, gravel, and water consistently for every batch. Hand-mixing is fine for tiny jobs, but for anything over 1–2 m², it’s slow, messy, and exhausting. Electric mixers are perfect for back gardens and small jobs, while petrol mixers offer more power for big pours. Mixing your own concrete gives you flexibility over the ratio, setting time, and batch size. Just be consistent and don’t overload the drum — most DIY mixers are rated for about 90 litres per mix.
Flat isn’t always level — and that’s why a reliable level is essential. For smaller bases, a long spirit level (1200–1800mm) across a straight edge will do. But for larger slabs, a rotating laser level and tripod setup can save time and give accurate fall measurements across the entire area. This is crucial for drainage — especially on driveways or patios where a 1:80 fall is needed. Always check both directions before pouring. Set reference points around your formwork and use them to level your screed guides or blinding layer before you bring the concrete in.
A screed board — typically a long, straight length of timber, aluminium, or box section — is used to level and flatten the wet concrete once poured. It’s pulled along the formwork rails or screed rails using a sawing motion to cut down high spots and fill in the lows. For DIYers, a 2.4m timber plank works fine, but aluminium screeds give better glide and cleaner edges. This tool ensures an even slab thickness and removes guesswork during the pour. If your screeding is off, the rest of the finish will suffer — so take your time and use your level to check as you go.
Once your slab is screeded and has started to firm up, a concrete float is used to bring the paste to the surface and smooth out the texture. It also helps close up minor surface holes and seals the top layer. A magnesium float is preferred for most jobs because it glides well without sticking — but a wooden float can work fine for small garden slabs. Floating should happen shortly after screeding — wait until the bleed water disappears but before the surface is fully hardened. Done properly, it gives you a clean, uniform finish and sets the stage for further trowelling if needed.
If you want clean, rounded edges on your concrete slab, an edging trowel is the tool for the job. It shapes the outer edges while the concrete is still soft, helping prevent chips and cracks later. A proper edge also improves water runoff and gives your slab a more professional appearance. Choose one with a comfortable grip and rounded blade — typically 5–10mm radius is ideal for garden bases. Work the edges just after floating, while the concrete still has some give. Skipping this step often leads to rough, crumbling slab edges over time.
Technically not a “tool,” but absolutely essential if you want your base to last. Steel reinforcement helps prevent cracking and adds tensile strength to your slab — especially important for driveways, heavy garden buildings, or poorly draining ground. Use mesh sheets (A142, A193) or individual rebar rods spaced and tied together. Support them with chairs or spacers so they sit in the top third of the slab. Never let reinforcement rest on the hardcore or DPM. It needs to be positioned properly within the concrete to do its job. Add this to your list — it's a must-have for durability.
Your slab is only as good as your formwork. Use timber boards (usually 6x2 or 4x2) set to the finished slab height around the edge of your pour. Secure them with timber pegs every 600–900mm and double-check the levels. These boards act as your concrete mould and guide for screeding. Good formwork prevents bulging, slumping, or uneven edges — especially with wet concrete or deeper pours. Once everything is level, tighten up the pegs and brace any long runs. Spray the inside of the boards with a release agent or light oil to make removal easier once the slab sets.
If you’re mixing on site or have limited access for a ready-mix truck, you’ll need a solid wheelbarrow or powered muck truck to move concrete into place. It’s not just about shifting material — it's about speed. Concrete starts setting as soon as it’s mixed, so getting it poured quickly and evenly matters. Choose a heavy-duty wheelbarrow with a wide tyre and deep tray to reduce tipping. If you’ve got a big pour, consider hiring a powered barrow or concrete buggy — it can save hours and your back. More efficient transport = better finish, every time.
For external slabs like driveways, patios, or pathways, a broom finish is both functional and safe. After floating, once the surface has stiffened slightly, dragging a stiff-bristle broom across the concrete gives it a light texture and non-slip surface. It also helps hide minor trowel marks or imperfections. Always broom in the direction of traffic flow (e.g. front to back for a driveway). Don’t do it too early or you’ll tear the surface — too late and it won’t leave a mark. A final broom pass gives your slab that clean, pro-level touch without needing special tools.
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